The narrator tells us about how the ocean and human bravery seduced him, over and over again:
"Never had I seen men do something so beautiful, so pointless and elegant, as if dancing on water was the best and brightest thing a man could do.”
"Because, finally, this is not a story about surfing; it's a story about fear, about pushing beyond fear, and about becoming addicted to the pushing. Moreover, it's a story about the price of being more than ordinary. Pikelet is forever condemned to be Salieri to Sando's Mozart: just talented enough to know how much more talented the real geniuses are. Greatness, in whatever realm, burns, even if you touch it just for a moment. Thirty years on, a grown Pikelet still judges "every joyous moment, every victory and revelation against those few seconds of living". But, tellingly, he also still surfs, still "does something completely pointless and beautiful, and in this at least he should need no explanation"."
Loving this fresh and soulful film review: "Profound Tim Winton adaptation swirls with soul and beauty", available
here
And this one: NYT on Breath's "
Tasty Waves and Gnomic Truths"